It's three in the morning when you spot an Elvis look-alike sauntering by arm-in-arm with a glittering showgirl. A bride in a long white dress shrieks 'blackjack!' as a stoic blue-haired granny feeds nickels into a slot machine while throwing back a gin and tonic. It's a surreal, Technicolor-tinged fantasy straight out of the movies – there's only one place you could be.
The landscape is a constantly shifting paradox. It's a volatile cocktail of dueling forces: sophistication and smut, risk and reward, boom and bust. That's all part of its charm. Head downtown to explore Vegas' nostalgic beginnings and its cultural renaissance of vintage shops and cocktail bars where local culture thrives, then detour off the Strip to find intriguing museums celebrating Vegas' neon, atomic-fueled past.Tips & articles

























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