Belgium's
fascinating capital, and the administrative capital of the EU,
Brussels is historic yet hip, bureaucratic yet bizarre, self confident
yet unshowy, and multicultural to its roots. These contrasts are
multilayered – Francophone alongside Flemish, and Eurocrats
cheek-by-jowl with immigrants. And all this plays out in a cityscape
that swings from majestic to quirky to rundown and back again. Organic
art-nouveau facades face off against 1960s concrete disgraces, and
regal 19th-century mansions contrast with the brutal glass of the EU’s
Gotham City. This whole maelstrom swirls out from Brussels’ medieval
core, where the Grand Place is surely one of the world’s most beautiful
squares. One constant is the enviable quality of everyday life, with a
café/bar scene that could keep you drunk for years. But Brussels
doesn’t go out of its way to impress. The citizens’ humorous, deadpan
outlook on life is often just as surreal as the canvases of one-time
resident Magritte.
Brussels is a city of fine food, café culture, Art Nouveau architecture and the surreal. Pull up a chair and join laissez-faire locals who value the city’s casual atmosphere. Watch money go down on swish Ave Louise or buy dried caterpillars just blocks away in Matonge, the capital’s African quarter. Some of the world’s most enduring images of surrealist art were created in the nondescript northern suburb of Jette. And the architecture ranges from monumental edifices such as the Grand Place to organic Art Nouveau façades and the EU’s real-life Gotham City. Constant among all this is the quality of everyday life – the shopping’s great, the restaurants fab, the chocolate shops sublime and the pub scene extraordinary. For a long time Brussels didn’t go out of its way to impress, but its stint as Cultural Capital of Europe in 2000 saw the city dusted and polished in a flurry that brought renewed life to historic buildings and decaying streets.
A new spirit, just short of cockiness, emerged, flaming outside interest and inner-city regeneration. Nearly a decade on, Brussels is looking better than ever.
Show in Lonely Planet
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