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A sliver of a coastal state in India's
deep south, Kerala is shaped by its layered landscape: almost 600km of
glorious Arabian Sea coast and beaches; a languid network of
glistening backwaters; and the spice and tea-covered hills of the
Western Ghats. Just setting foot on this swathe of soul-quenching,
palm-shaded green will slow your subcontinental stride to a blissed-out
amble. Kerala is a world away from the frenzy of elsewhere, as if India had passed through the Looking Glass and become an altogether more laid-back place.
Besides
its famous backwaters, elegant houseboats, ayurvedic treatments and
delicately spiced, taste-bud-tingling cuisine, Kerala is home to wild
elephants, exotic birds and the odd tiger, while vibrant traditions
such as Kathakali plays, temple festivals and snake-boat races
frequently bring even the smallest villages to life. It's hard to deny
Kerala's liberal use of the slogan 'God's Own Country'.
This flourishing land isn’t good at keeping its secret: adventurers and traders have been in on it for years. The serene Fort Cochin
pays homage to its colonial past, each building whispering a tale of
Chinese visitors, Portuguese traders, Jewish settlers, Syrian Christians
and Muslim merchants. Yet even with its colonial distractions, Kerala
manages to cling to its vibrant traditions: Kathakali – a blend of
religious play and dance; kalarippayat – a gravity-defying martial art; and theyyam – a trance-induced ritual. Combine this with some of the most tastebud-tingling cuisine in India, and you can imagine how hard it will be to leave before you even get here.
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