Despite
rampant Chinese-led modernisation, Lhasa (literally the 'Place of the
Gods') is still largely a city of wonders. Your first view of the red
and white Potala Palace
soaring above the holy city will raise goosebumps and the charming
whitewashed old Tibetan quarter continues to preserve the flavour of
traditional Tibetan life. It is here in the Jokhang, an otherworldly
mix of flickering butter lamps, wafting incense and prostrating
pilgrims, and the encircling Barkhor pilgrim circuit that most visitors first fall in love with Tibet.
These
days the booming boulevards of the modern Chinese city dwarf the
winding alleyways of the Tibetan quarter but it is in the latter that
you should focus your time. Hired transport is not required in Lhasa and
most guides will let you explore the city by yourself. If possible,
budget a week to acclimatise, see the sights and explore the
fascinating backstreets before heading off on an overland adventure.
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